Bas Timmer: ‘When I see something in the world that is wrong, I want to fix it’

What keeps you awake at night?
I sleep well, but if anything troubles me, it is the balance between doing good and taking care of myself. During the first two years of Sheltersuit, I worked entirely as a volunteer. Five days a week, ten hours a day, and at weekends I had a side job as a chef. That came purely from motivation. I wanted nothing more than to make as many suits as possible. I lived in a temporary flat and ate dinner at my mother’s in the evenings. Everything was geared towards that one dream. Imagine if Sheltersuit were active on every continent, in every country, and every person without a home had a warm place to sleep.

Why did you start Sheltersuit?
The father of close friends of mine died on the streets because there was no night shelter available. It was not cold enough yet. He had knocked on the door and was told: sorry, we are not open yet. Here, take a blanket. Pure regulation and nonsense. It was cold and windy, and he died of hypothermia.

A few years earlier, I had been in Denmark during the winter. It was bitterly cold. I was studying at the fashion academy and designing warm hoodies with high collars. In Copenhagen, people were sleeping on the streets without proper clothing. I thought: my designs could keep them warm. Why don’t I start a brand where people can buy a warm jumper and, through a buy one, give one system, donate one to someone living on the streets? But my mother said: if customers see people on the street wearing your jumpers, they won’t want to buy them. People don’t want to look like someone who is homeless. Later, when that father died, I thought: I should have done it. That was when my mother said: then come up with something better than a scarf jumper. That is how Sheltersuit was born.

How do you bring out the best in others?
By putting people on a stage. By complimenting them when they do something well, even if it is something small. I also notice how much it helps to talk with people about their past. That builds trust. I am open about everything myself, and that encourages others to be open too. In the early years of Sheltersuit, I mainly focused on building a family. We worked together from early morning until late at night to help people living on the streets. Beyond that, I share my passion. I talk about what I dream of, what I believe in, and what I stand against. I struggle with bureaucracy when it comes at the expense of people and the planet.

Whose job would you like to swap with for a day?
With the creative director of Balenciaga. It is such a powerful role, with enormous turnover and extraordinary creative talent. I would love to redirect that force towards social impact in one single move.

Do people ever see you as a rebel or a troublemaker?
Yes. Especially in the early days of Sheltersuit, I was often met with resistance. Shelters and municipalities are responsible for homelessness in cities. Time and again I was told: Sheltersuit is a bad idea because it keeps people on the streets. We are against it and we will not distribute suits. Fine, I would say, then arrange housing for these people, and jobs as well. And let me be very clear: Sheltersuit does not keep anyone on the streets. In New York, homelessness policy is similar to that in the Netherlands, and I received exactly the same criticism. That is when I started asking people experiencing homelessness directly: does this suit keep you on the streets? They laughed at me and said: are you crazy? This is a jacket. Give me a f***ing house.

The system does not work. People either cannot or do not want to go inside. I believe that is not acceptable. When I see something in the world that is wrong, I want to fix it.

What is your most difficult entrepreneurial dilemma?
Balancing commerce and creativity. I once designed a coat for Chloé in which I could pour all my creativity. Piping, double pockets, silk details, a built-in scarf, and reversible. But that coat cost €2,500, far too expensive for most consumers. For my own clothing brand, I might think: I want buttons with my own logo. Then the commercial reality says: save that for two collections later. It is a constant trade-off between competing interests.

Is making sustainable fashion not incredibly difficult?
No. It is what I have done my entire life. When I walk through a factory and see dead stock or leftover materials, I feel inspired. I immediately know what I can make from them. If I were to sit behind a computer like a conventional fashion designer, choosing from endless fabrics and colours, I would freeze. That does not work for me.

What price have you paid for your success?
I have given up a great deal of free time. I have gone on holiday, but I was always mentally occupied with Sheltersuit. Friends are building their lives, buying homes, having children, while I have been almost entirely focused on work. I do want children. I think I would be a good father and my girlfriend would be a wonderful mother. I love the idea of going on distributions with my child and helping people living on the streets. I would love to show my child how I see the world.

Are you not afraid of the world your child would grow up in?
No. I hope my child will want to fight for what is right. I sometimes have discussions with friends who say: I don’t want to bring children into a world that is so messed up. But people have been saying that for at least fifty years.

Who or what has shaped you most as a leader?
My mother. My father too, to some extent, but above all my mother taught me to put people first. Whether it is the people in our ateliers, people living on the streets, or the people who follow us, I always try to put them first. If I have not done anything enjoyable with the team for too long, my mother will tug at my sleeve. I think that is where my strength lies. When I give someone a Sheltersuit, I am not thinking about whether they spilled tomato soup on their shirt or whether they smell. I simply give them a hug. I do not hesitate, because I know they need it. The same applies to the people in our workplace. The contact is warm and personal. That comes from my mother.

Which achievement are you most proud of?
Being named a Next Generation Leader by Time Magazine. When they called, my first thought was: have they got the right person? The year before, the award went to Greta Thunberg. Later they emailed to explain why I had been chosen. It was about people who use their voice and platform to create movements, break boundaries and drive change. That is exactly how it feels to me.

Interview: Vera Spaans | Photography: Pieter Bas Bouwman | Videography: Freelancers United